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 Post subject: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:50 pm 
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trained to drive the choo choo
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Anyone with experience with Scouts knows that they rust badly, and the title of this build was chosen appropriately.


In a lame effort to weed out the BS that was in the other thread, I reposted the stuff here.



Day one.
I fianlly moved the Scout into the garage. My cranky neighbor stood out in his driveway and watched me while I did it. Jerk. Anyway, there is not much room at all to move around, but I am determined to get stuff done.


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Last edited by Scout-Matt on Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:07 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:53 pm 
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Day two.
I pulled the front driveshaft, doors, and front tires. I disconnected a bunch of stuff under the hood and thought about shit, then decided I would have to pull the grille to get the motor out. Fenders ended up coming off as well.

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Last edited by Scout-Matt on Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:05 pm 
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Day three. (saturday)

Welded a winch on my engine hoist and put a pulley on the boom. Drained the radiator, cut out the radiator support, then yanked the boat anchor. Also pulled the dash and all the wiring. Packed it in for the night about 9pm.

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Day 3.5. (sunday)

Towed the Scout to the carwash and hosed it down. I figured it would be more pleasant to work on if it was clean. Cleaned Saturday's mess while I could, rearranged a few things as well. Now I have more room and some empty shelves too.
Paid Chris for the motor and t-case, went to Topper's for the wiring harness. Holy crap there is a lot of wiring! TBI is a lot simpler, but just how cool will the TPI look under the hood? :tu2: I'll probably use about half of the wiring. I really wish I had the motor here so I could plug everything in and label it.

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Last edited by Scout-Matt on Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 8:33 am 
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Outstanding. :tu2:

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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 10:00 am 
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Sweet....don't be like me...keep the pics coming...i just kinda stopped...

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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 10:47 pm 
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You going to have it ready to go back down to Attica sometime this year?


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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 11:22 pm 
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Looks awsome!!

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 6:12 pm 
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I'll keep posting pics as I get stuff done. Right now I am waiting on Topper's backyard to dry out so I can get the motor.

I don't plan on this being an all-summer build, but you know how things happen. So yes, I do plan on being back at Attica this year.

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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 7:00 pm 
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Speaking of which, I am currently accepting donations to the gravel fund :lol:

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 9:10 pm 
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Day 4

Got the motor. Motor hoist was busted, so we had to improvise. Worked well. Motor is going to stay until I get my hoist fixed.


Image



Btw, nice avatar, huh?

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Last edited by Scout-Matt on Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:09 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:37 pm 
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hey, lookin good so far.

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:55 pm 
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Got a new ram for the hoist and unloaded. Cleaned up in the garage some and got antsy.

Image

Time to bust out the sawsall and make room for the crank pulley and maybe the exhaust manifolds. Maybe some block hugger headers?

Image

Image


I'm excited!!!

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Last edited by Scout-Matt on Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:09 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 11:50 pm 
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as tight as that clearance looks, you may have to stay with the exhaust manifolds.

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 12:54 am 
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Looking good. I like Scouts, but haven't run across one that wasn't rusted out. Not that that stopped me from buying my Jeep.....and my point was??

What are your plans for the rest of the drivetrain?

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:03 am 
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I almost forgot about rams horn manifolds. Almost a factory header!

The motor is a 5.0 from an 86 Firebird as far as I can tell. 190 hp.
The rest of the drivetrain will be a 700r4, 241, hp 60 front and eaton rear. As for tires I'm thinking of some pitbull rockers.

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:48 am 
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Scout-Matt wrote:
I almost forgot about rams horn manifolds. Almost a factory header!

The motor is a 5.0 from an 86 Firebird as far as I can tell. 190 hp.
The rest of the drivetrain will be a 700r4, 241, hp 60 front and eaton rear. As for tires I'm thinking of some pitbull rockers.


What's your reason for the 700r4, 241?? Just curious...and do you have them? if not i've got a heck of a deal on a 700r4 with a pass drop np208

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 12:07 pm 
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I already heave them.

The 700r4 has a first gear of 3.06, the th350 has a first of 2.52. Plus I have OD.

Originally I was going to use a 4.3/700r4, then I got this other motor. :tu2:

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 12:24 pm 
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Scout-Matt wrote:
I already heave them.

The 700r4 has a first gear of 3.06, the th350 has a first of 2.52. Plus I have OD.

Originally I was going to use a 4.3/700r4, then I got this other motor. :tu2:


Yeah, that was my theory on the 700r4 too....but i'm now going with a TH400 cause i don't wanna mess with the TV cable on the 700r4....i shoulda gotten a 4L60 but can't afford that stuff....and i don't think i can bolt up a 205 tcase to the new 4L60 either...so i'm hitting up the TH400 and NP205 combo...though some say the TH350 can actually be built stronger...

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'78 CJ7 project....350, NV3500, NP241, fiberglass tub, show and shine
'72 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible - the family fun car
'05 Chevrolet 3500 dually, duramax, stock
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'08 Chevrolet HHR company car - The silver bullet

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:15 pm 
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http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:33 pm 
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Scout-Matt wrote:
I almost forgot about rams horn manifolds. Almost a factory header!

The motor is a 5.0 from an 86 Firebird as far as I can tell. 190 hp.
The rest of the drivetrain will be a 700r4, 241, hp 60 front and eaton rear. As for tires I'm thinking of some pitbull rockers.


Yes, ram horns work fine. I used them for stock class mud racing where I could not use headers. Hogged them out with a die grinder and matched them to the heads and they were great. My buddy sells Pit Bulls (and about any other tires and 4x4 parts) and runs them on his Jeep too. He claims they really work well in rocks and mud.

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:13 pm 
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Speedway Motors sells a "Ram Horn" new manifold for 300 a set. The alternater doesn't use a bolt on the new ones.

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 9:20 am 
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Scout-Matt wrote:


Thanks, i've seen that before...and re-reading makes me think again about running my 700r4....

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'72 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible - the family fun car
'05 Chevrolet 3500 dually, duramax, stock
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'08 Chevrolet HHR company car - The silver bullet

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 Post Posted: Mon May 14, 2007 8:13 pm 
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Well, after moping around over not having parts, I decided to work on something. that something happened to be the in-tank pump. I have read of people using the e2000 pump from a 88 Ford truck, but it is a more expensive pump than the stock one. So, I thought I'd look into doing an in-tank pump. I didn't see much on Pirate, so I am pretty much on my own.


What I did...


I went to Barto's. It's a circle track shop on Creighton, about two blocks west of cop central. I picked up two -6 AN bulkheads, nuts and nylon washers for about $22. After riding about 30 miles back and forth between Barto's and Napa trying to find the right fittings, I decided to go to the hydraulic shop on west main. I forget the name of the joint but it is about a block or two west of O'Sullivan's. They set me up with some seamless tube and the right fittings to put a hard line to the AN bulkhead. That was around $5, but I later went back to have something flared because my flare tool wouldn't work on the harder seamless.

The pump and tubing assembled.

Image

Image



I talked to Topper and Macgyvr about spare tires. I was wanting to set up the Scout to carry one, but they sorta convinced me it's not needed for wheeling the local spots. So, instead of turning the tank sideways and standing the tire up next to it, I sunk the fuel cell through the floor. I wanted to do that anyway, but turning the cell sideways wouldn't have let me. Anyway, out came the sawzall for the sheet metal, and the welder for the cross member. Afterward, I ended up taking all the floor out up to the bulkhead. It was rusted through and ready to fall off anyway.

Image

The square thing at the bottom of the pic is a frame I built to hold the fuel cell, there will be some supports and some "floor" to it later.



Here is the cell sunk down to the bottom of the frame, about 5 inches. I'm not going to make it permanent until I get the rear axle in and can see how much clearance I have.

Image

And again with the "spare" in. It will probably take two people to wrestle it out should I need it. It shouldn't move where it is, but a ratchet strap over it wouldn't be hard at all.

Another view.

Image

It's a halftop!

Image

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Last edited by Scout-Matt on Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Mon May 14, 2007 8:53 pm 
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wow dude!!! that is awsome!

it is a sweet scout.


the only comment i have is...

why cut the floor out for the tank? It is a scout, give it a few more months, and the floor would have rusted away.


seriously though, awsome!

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 11:54 am 
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it's good to see it coming along...looking good!!!

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'72 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible - the family fun car
'05 Chevrolet 3500 dually, duramax, stock
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'08 Chevrolet HHR company car - The silver bullet

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 Post Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 4:10 pm 
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jkirisits wrote:
wow dude!!! that is awsome!

it is a sweet scout.


the only comment i have is...

why cut the floor out for the tank? It is a scout, give it a few more months, and the floor would have rusted away.


seriously though, awsome!
In a few more months, the whole thing will be rusted away!

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 Post Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 11:14 pm 
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Scout-Matt wrote:
jkirisits wrote:
wow dude!!! that is awsome!

it is a sweet scout.


the only comment i have is...

why cut the floor out for the tank? It is a scout, give it a few more months, and the floor would have rusted away.


seriously though, awsome!
In a few more months, the whole thing will be rusted away!


well then you better get busy so that you can alteast get a few minutes of good wheeling before it completely rusts to nothing.

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Jeeper4Life wrote:
noone means any harm and that it's all in fun.. but then there's kennedy..

'46CJ2a/buggy project in the works.
'08 Dodge 2500, 6.7 Cummins, 4x4
'78 GMC 4x4 short bed
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 Post Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 6:55 pm 
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It's been almost two months since I had the motor in the engine bay. I sat and designed a trans crossmember, then it took it to a local shop to get the parts cut. It took two weeks to get ahold of the guy, a week to get an estimate, and 4 weeks to get the parts, and they weren't quite done yet. They were cut out, just not formed. (bent) I got one extra on all the parts.

Image

There's one of each. I used a sharpie to mark where they were going to be bent and used an angle grinder with a cutting blade to cut 2/3rds to 3/4 through. That makes it easy to bend. Just be sure you cut straight or your bends will be wrong.

Image

Bend away from the cut and weld in the cut.

Image

Here it is, on the left is how the parts go together, one piece welds on the frame, one piece welds on the end of the tube so you can bolt it down and the last piece welds in the middle for the trans mount to bolt to.


Now that I have parts I can get the motor in and start wiring and fuel.

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Last edited by Scout-Matt on Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 1:30 am 
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Early morning report, 1:20 AM and the motor is in. I am pretty sure my welding will hold, but I am not sure the front output will clear the new crossmember. Will get the tcase in and some pics up tomorrow.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 3:56 am 
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BTW, Yeah, I'm working. I'll be home at 18:30, though.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 10:28 am 
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Two hot dog fridays and no Tuff guy? People were wondering.


I said I would post some more pics, and here we go.

Image

Image

The crossmember turned out fine, but next time I will have it all bolted together so I know exactly where the mounts will end up. Without the mount it looked like there would be lots of room for it, but it turned out to not be the case. The frame brackets ended up being above the tube instead of below like I wanted, but what else could I do? After it was in I realized that I probably won't have room for the front d-shaft.:doh: I'm going to stab the case in today and see.


I started with this?

Image :doh:

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Last edited by Scout-Matt on Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 6:32 pm 
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I killed a sawsall doing this... it was a slow painful death with sparks and crap shooting out of the side. :acclaim:

First I took out the seat and cut out the storage box that was under it. It was useless since there was no way to get anything in or out of it. Then I used my hoist to lift up the tcase so I could see how much I needed to cut. Turns out I had to cut a lot more than I thought.

Image

From the other side, you can see how much I cut out better.

Image


Turns out the crossmember won't be in the way after all, but I am not done cutting the body for the front driveshaft. the rear shaft is going to be short.

Image

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Last edited by Scout-Matt on Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:14 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 8:18 pm 
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what transfer case are you using?

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 8:47 pm 
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It's a 241.

If I had money to blow I would have taken my front axle to Stan and had him swap the tubes side to side and make it a pass drop hp 60.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 10:05 pm 
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Scout-Matt wrote:
It's a 241.

If I had money to blow I would have taken my front axle to Stan and had him swap the tubes side to side and make it a pass drop hp 60.


what would you have run if the d60 was a pass drog?

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 Post Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 11:29 am 
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jkirisits wrote:
Scout-Matt wrote:
It's a 241.

If I had money to blow I would have taken my front axle to Stan and had him swap the tubes side to side and make it a pass drop hp 60.


what would you have run if the d60 was a pass drog?


dana 300?

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 Post Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 6:31 pm 
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Not sure, twin stick something. maybe a d300, but I have heard of people busting the cases.

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 Post Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:26 pm 
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Scout-Matt wrote:
Not sure, twin stick something. maybe a d300, but I have heard of people busting the cases.


do you think the 300 will hold to the v8?
I know they came on V8's in the AMC era, but ....

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cut up a good scout!!! :nono:


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jkirisits wrote:
Scout-Matt wrote:
Not sure, twin stick something. maybe a d300, but I have heard of people busting the cases.


do you think the 300 will hold to the v8?
I know they came on V8's in the AMC era, but ....
I don't know, but I'm not running one, so why debate it?

Best I can tell this is a 190 hp motor, and d300s came in Scouts too, both gas and diesel. Now if someone was dead set on the 300, and had the scratch, he or she could get a replacement case from Stak, but those are $$$


Cut up a good Scout? I thought about it, and I could either let it rust away, scrap it out, or build it for wheeling and send it out in style.

Scouts are alot like Jeeps, once you replace he factory stuff they can be good wheelers

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Scout-Matt wrote:
Scouts are alot like Jeeps, once you replace he factory stuff they can be good wheelers


Jeeps can usually do pretty good in factory form...

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kennedy wrote:
Scout-Matt wrote:
Scouts are alot like Jeeps, once you replace he factory stuff they can be good wheelers


Jeeps can usually do pretty good in factory form...

With less skinny pedal, or smaller tires...

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Jeeps=smaller motor and wussier axles.


If you want to make a big deal about it, I'll SUA my other Scout and wheel it against your stock Jeep.

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Scout-Matt wrote:
Jeeps=smaller motor and wussier axles.


If you want to make a big deal about it, I'll SUA my other Scout and wheel it against your stock Jeep.



I got dibs on the last real 4x4 ever built...



(in macs form) John "it was a jeep thing, but all that shit broke" Kirisits

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Well... not much lately. Been needing to do wiring and been putting it off untill this last week or so. I bought some new(er) injectors, plumbed some fuel lines, mounted my fuel cell, and begun wiring. I also cut a few patches to cover holes someone cut in the firewall for gauges. I also need to get a piece of steel and make a new dash, then I can do more wiring. I'll get pics up next weekend, right now there isn't much to look at.

Short term list of things to do...

Buy and install starter
buy and install distributor cap and coil
Buy and install new fuel pump
Cut out inner fenders and relocate battery
Make dashboard
Wiring


Speaking of a dashboard... I am thinking I want three gauges in it. Volts, temp, and oil, but I have in my mind 4 gauges. I just don't know what the fourth one would be. (small tach maybe?) The other option would be to put the gauges in the firewall like the previous owner did and just have switches and idiot lights in the dash. (along with a radio and CB.)

Opinions?

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Scout-Matt wrote:
Speaking of a dashboard... I am thinking I want three gauges in it. Volts, temp, and oil, but I have in my mind 4 gauges. I just don't know what the fourth one would be. (small tach maybe?) The other option would be to put the gauges in the firewall like the previous owner did and just have switches and idiot lights in the dash. (along with a radio and CB.)

Opinions?


Tranny Temp
Air pressure (OBA?)
Clock
Altitude

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what's the progress on this project?

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Slow, but still moving. Lately I've been sorting through the wiring harness trimming out the unneeded crap. I know I've said it before but I really think I'll have it running this weekend. Not sure if it will start with out codes, but I can hope. I'll try to get some video up if it does.

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Fire in the hole!

Can't imagine my neighbors are too happy about it. Now I have a gas leak I didn't have before, plus the pulsator is leaking, and I'm not sure what to do about that.

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Scout-Matt wrote:
Fire in the hole!

Can't imagine my neighbors are too happy about it. meow I have a gas leak I didn't have before, plus the pulsator is leaking, and I'm not sure what to do about that.

What's a pulsator? and congrats!! gotta love that first fire :-) i screamed like a girl i was so happy :-)

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You know in some houses when you turn the water off suddenly it makes the pipes bang? Well same thing in the fuel system with the injectors. the pulsator absorbs that. I think I will have someone look in the tank while I start it, with the injectors running it shouldn't do that. (I hope)

I had it running again today, and it seemed slow to start, wouldn't rev, abd backfire from the exhaust. I advanced the dizzy and it ran pretty sweet for a second. I bumped it up a tooth and tried to start again but the battery is too low. I'm trying to find my alt belt and make a bracket to hold the alt tight.

Going to have to talk to big Topper sometime about putting some tube in the front, partly to stiffen the frame and partly to hold a radiator.

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Chuck wrote:
Scout-Matt wrote:
Fire in the hole!

Can't imagine my neighbors are too happy about it. meow I have a gas leak I didn't have before, plus the pulsator is leaking, and I'm not sure what to do about that.

What's a pulsator? and congrats!! gotta love that first fire :-) i screamed like a girl cause i am :-)


:eek2:

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noone means any harm and that it's all in fun.. but then there's kennedy..

'46CJ2a/buggy project in the works.
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A month and a half has gone by...

Most of it has been spent screwing off, going back and forth between deciding on the 7165 ecm (MAF) and the 7747 ecm (TBI, SD) and going through the wiring I have. Finally I decided on the 7747, partly because I can do EBL in the future, and partly because I didn't get the ($200) MAF sensor with the motor. I went pin by pin and removed the unused wires and moved some others. When I thought I was done I plugged everything in and started on the truck wiring. Going on advice from others wired through relays and run the grounds through switches. If a wire shorts going through the firewall whatever it is controlling will just turn on rather than start a fire. Another thing I did was run the distributor power through the oil pressure switch (comes on at 5 psi) Should I lose oil pressure it'll kill the motor before I run it dry.

I did have to take the conduit off a couple more times to chase wires, pull unneeded stuff and add a few. Not quite done yet, going to chase the torque converter lockup wire and maybe put it on manual control.

About 1 am, with no MAP sensor, open exhaust manifolds, the TPS wired backwards (TPI and TBI are backwards from each other) and some 12 ga wire in place of the #2 plug wire (WTF happened to that wire???) I had ignition. It took a visit from the ether bunny, but it went.

Before I run it again I need to hook up the alternator so I don't kill the battery again. I do need to time it, it was hard to start and hard to rev. Had flames from the exhaust. Checked timing and it was retarded so I advanced it a tooth, but the battery was too low to start it again.



That's it for this update.

Image

Image

Image

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Last edited by Scout-Matt on Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:17 am, edited 1 time in total.

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cool!! rock and roll!

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kennedy wrote:
Chuck wrote:
Scout-Matt wrote:
Fire in the hole!

Can't imagine my neighbors are too happy about it. meow I have a gas leak I didn't have before, plus the pulsator is leaking, and I'm not sure what to do about that.

What's a pulsator? and congrats!! gotta love that first fire :-) i screamed like a girl, Cause that's what kennedy would have done :-)


:eek2:


:elephant:

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I look chubby.

<object width="425" height="350"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/hEknn2-A9pQ"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/hEknn2-A9pQ" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed></object>

It needs two more sensors and computer mods to make it run right, but it runs.

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SWEET!!! sounds good...like its got a HUGE cam or something....j/k

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got the MAP sensor in, runs better but has a high idle. Not sure what does that. Anyone have a scanner I can borrow?

<object width="425" height="350"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/-fNfa0DvL8I"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/-fNfa0DvL8I" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed></object>

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I have a scanner that can scan GM up to 93

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That would work, the ECM is 88-91 and the motor is 86.

I put a tach on and it ran about 1700. It might idle itself down some, but with no radiator I don't want to overheat it.

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even if it does idle down, it won't go down to a normal idle... its too high.

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Scout-Matt wrote:
That would work, the ECM is 88-91 and the motor is 86.

I put a tach on and it ran about 1700. It might idle itself down some, but with no radiator I don't want to overheat it.


Check for open vacuums...that's what my problem was, it was the large 3/8 hose for the brake booster...mine came right down...

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any updates?


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No job, no money, no new work.

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Scout-Matt wrote:
No job, no money, no new work.


Still no job? dang boy it's been over a month! How you payin da bills? :-D

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I don't know. Money always shows up at the right time. being able to make half payments on the car helps too.

Spent the last 4 days in Lowell, IN making $150/day. Going to get the Jeep paid off first thing Monday morning before I go back for a few more days.

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An update finally

Went from this

Image

to this

Image

After deciding that I didn't want my relays under the hood to get wet and dirty, not to mention the rat's nest of wires there. Now it's all behind the dash.

Did I say new dash? Here it is, not quite finished.

Image


Part of moving the relays inside and wiring in the new dash is that everything had to get disconnected. So with a roll of tape and a pen in hand everything came off and labeled. I fed the wires in through a hole in the firewall and used the old grommet so nothing gets chafed. I also deleted several relays and rewired the distributor so it has power as soon as the key is on, rather than waiting for oil pressure to build before it comes on.

Of course, whenever you take someting apart like that you have to test it when you put it back together. I pulled the battery out of the Jeep and stuck it in the Scout, then turned the key on. The clock came on, but I didn't hear the fuel pump. Think, look, oh yeah, the ECM isn't plugged in. Still no fuel pump. No fuses. Ok, put fuses in. Still nothing. Check relay wiring, yes power, ground relay, pump runs, think some more.

In the GM system, the ECM provides a ground for the SES (check engine) light and the injectors, so that's how I wired the fuel pump relay, but it's actuall the opposite. It provides power to energize the relay. Once I provided a a ground it came on. Naturally I had to turn the key a little more just to make sure the starter worked. Starter works. In fact, it was running before I realized or expected it. I shut it down right away because I had a manifold off on one side and didn't want to warp any valves. It did seem quiet for not having a manifold on one side.


Notice anything wrong?

Image

Yep, 4 injectors and 4 spark plugs unplugged. It started on 4 cylinders. :doh:


That's about it for right now, I'm trying to do the things that don't require much money if any at all right now, but that's a short list.

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:tu2:

Wondered what had happened to it.

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noone means any harm and that it's all in fun.. but then there's kennedy..

'46CJ2a/buggy project in the works.
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cool, i like the dash, i'll be doing something similar in the YJ

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Looking good man. I am so excited to get my fuel injection swap completed but I know i got alot to do yet. :doh:

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damn dude, it looks great!!!

hey, run it on 4 cylinders... better gas mileage

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It would probably make more power and weigh less than the old 4 banger.

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Progress is slooowww but there is some.

My one ton axle is an Eaton. It looks like a 9" on steroids, but has a removable rear cover. It's the same as Macgyvr's rear axle. Supposedly just as strong as a 14b but lighter. Only thing is the one I bought has 4.10s and I want better. Next step is 5.13. :tu2: I had the third sitting on the floor of the storage locker for awhile, uncovered, so there is some dirt in it. Parts for these are hard to find an expensive when you do, so it is worth my time to tear it down and give it a proper cleaning. I posted this in another thread, but here it is again. I should take another picture with a pop can in it for reference, the thing is beefy.

Image


I don't know how much weight I lost with the drums and backing plates, but it was probably 20 or 30 pounds. I couldn't get the adjusters to back off, so I pounded on the drum from the back until I could get a couple prybars in there and wedge it off. Then there was a dust shield that came off with a few hammer taps and 4 bolts holding the backing plates on. Knock the studs out of the hubs and the drums come off.

When I slid it back in the garage I put it behind the Scout and noticed how wide it is. This pic makes it lookl wider than it is because it wasn't right up against the Scout.

Image

Here's a couple shts from right behind the wheels. Not quite centered, but you get the idea.

Image

Image



If I can get the 3rd cleaned, reassembled, and installed I'll start on the housing, cutting off the one link brackets and track bar mount. If not I'll be measuring for new leaf springs.

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sweet!

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Okaaayyyy...

I'll have pics up soon but this past week I have cut the mounts off the axle, pulled the d44 and springs, cut off the spring mounts from the frame, and moved the ecm once I realized that I had it right where I needed to run some tube. I also picked up a new 241 with the SYE and stabbed that in place. The only thing is that after I did I realized that the input was too big, so I had to yank it and pull it and the old one apart and swap inputs. :doh: I don't know how much those fuckers weigh but it was too much for one person to push it up there and get the bolts in, so I had to get creative with the ratchet straps.

Now I need springs and bushings so I can make mounts and get that axle hung.

[img][img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/scout016.jpg[/img][/img]

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Last edited by Scout-Matt on Mon Jun 02, 2008 2:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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:-D wanna go wheeling soon?

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The sooner the better!

I could put some time in on the other Scout and wheel that...

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Scout-Matt wrote:
The sooner the better!

I could put some time in on the other Scout and wheel that...


I thought about htat when i was working on the jeep...just direct your time to this thing..you'll be happier in the long run

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I was thinking about replacing the front springs and hangars for the new axle, but then thought I might just use what's already there. But, the d60 spring pad width is a half inch wider than the 44 that's in there now. I probably could have made it work, but I didn't want to bind the springs. So, goodbye d44!

Image

Image


I considered my options on cutting off the spring mounts, and the best thing seemed to be taking the bumper off. This let me get the grinder in there and also let me mount the bumper better.

Image


If you look carefully you'll see that the end of the frame isn't square and has bolt holes in it. I couldn't weld it very well the first time, so I had an opportunity to fix it. The solution was to plate the sides of the frame so I could have a solid smooth edge to weld.

The back of the bumper was smoothed out, rust ground off the end of the frame, and everything was clamped and centered in place.

Image

My welding on the top is very nice, but vertical and overhead need practice. When it's rolling I'll take it to a friend's and reweld it with a mig.

Image



Lastly, since I have no money and nothing else to do under the Scout, I lowered it. Mostly I wanted the jackstands in a better place than under the seats.

Image



At least this way when I get back to the dash and wiring it'll be easier to get in and out.

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Last edited by Scout-Matt on Fri Jun 06, 2008 2:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Still on page two... damn I'm tired of scrolling down.

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Scout-Matt wrote:
Still on page two... damn I'm tired of scrolling down.

do you have a button on your keyboard that says "end"? i use it often :tu2:


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kellyd469 wrote:
Scout-Matt wrote:
Still on page two... damn I'm tired of scrolling down.

do you have a button on your keyboard that says "end"? i use it often :tu2:


damn, i feel stupid. never thought to try that...LOL


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chaz wrote:
kellyd469 wrote:
Scout-Matt wrote:
Still on page two... damn I'm tired of scrolling down.

do you have a button on your keyboard that says "end"? i use it often :tu2:


damn, i feel stupid. never thought to try that...LOL

nice isnt it :tu2:


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That's what that button does...

Page up/page down works too.

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This is gonna hurt for a couple days...

Now that I have a hp 60 in my lab I decided to start tearing it down and check everything out. Everything went ok until I got to the kingpins. I decided a rebuild was in order so I went to take them out. I don't have a torch so I thought maybe I could heat the kp with the welder by sticking the rod in the hole and welding a big as puddle in there, then welding a nut on top. I did that and hit it with the impact until the nut broke off.
Well that didn't work. I thought of something I saw on Pirate and decided to try that. I took my angle grinder and cut the kingpin like this,
Image
then I welded the nut back on, better than I did the first time. That worked. I did the same thing to the other side, and thought it would be a good idea to take the socket off the impact and carry it with the kingpin inside out to the driveway. Well, there was a little bit of grease in the KP that hadn't burned yet. AS soon as I lifted up the socket the grease ran out through the hole onto my hand. It doesn't look blistered or anything but it sure hurts like a bitch. I'm done for today and maybe the next couple days.

Solarcaine works like a charm

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atleast you got them out

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Cool!! :-)

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AS if I don't have enough to do already, I'm putting the Scout on hold for a bit while I A)get a damn job, and B)Get this bike in suitable condition.

Here's the pic the seller sent.

Image

Here's what the tank really looks like...

Image

Yeah, gonna need paint.

I grabbed the grip and found that the throttle didn't move. Three of four carbs are gummed up. Unfortunately I unknowingly and unnecessarily fucked something up when I took them apart, but I don't think it's a big deal. If I can find a new pin and bushing I can fix it.
back to the carbs... I used wd-40 and got two loose, and ended up using a screwdriver to loosen the last one. I'm going to tear them down tomorrow, one at a time, and give them a thorough cleaning.

Poor dirty carbies.

Image

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thats a sweet bike


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I was a dumbshit and forgot to put the memory card back in my camera, so now I have a bunch of pictures on internal memory and no cable handy to download them. :(

I got it started. It ran on 1 cylinder, and after fidgeting with the choke and throttle I got it to run on all 4. I also tried to fix the throttle cable and bungled that, so I ordered a new one. I was still able to use the cable, so I went for a ride down the street and back. It felt great, I think I'm going to like this bike a lot.

Now I had to fix the brake, since I didn't have any working brakes in the front.

I wanted to take apart the master cylinder and clean it, but there is a snap ring that is rusted in and very hard to get to. I did get the master to work, but then the caliper was gummed up and the tire locked up. So, off comes the caliper. Most car calipers are cast in one piece, this one is 3 pieces.

Image


I thought about using compressed air to pop the piston out, but I dont think I have a nozzle with a rubber tip to make a good seal plus with all the gunk in there I'm not sure that it would work. Besides, I just didn't want to mess with the compressor. Back to the master cylinder. Once I got the pad and piston out I found a lot of gunk inside.

Image


Once everything was cleaned and reinstalled the brakes worked and I decided to go for a ride. Not so fast, it wouldn't start. Wouldn't even try. So I pulled a plug, no spark.
Check points.
Check volts at pionts.
Check volts at coils.
Check continuity between points and coils.
Make sure all parts of motor, coils, etc are grounded.
Manually open and close points, Aha! Since it is now night time, I can see even the littlest spark, and there it is, hiding from me way down at the base of the insulator. WTF is it doing there? No idea, but I'll be getting some new plugs today.

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I usually just text the pics to my email if i have no other way to get them off my phone... :tu2:


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chaz wrote:
I usually just text the pics to my email if i have no other way to get them off my phone... :tu2:


I think his camera has internal memory....

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Chuck wrote:
chaz wrote:
I usually just text the pics to my email if i have no other way to get them off my phone... :tu2:


I think his camera has internal memory....
:doh:


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:lol:

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I've got about 20 miles on it now. Still waiting on carb parts since the ones I ordered weren't the ones I needed. :doh: I did get the throttle cable but I think I will wait until I get the slow jets and do it all at once.

Stuff I still need to do...

Battery $60
Tires (on sale) $70 each plus install
Seat recovered $??
Insurance $80
Registration $??

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put some sea foam in your gas tank.

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Got the carb parts, new throttle cable, oil filter, and battery. It's nice to have the battery under the seat where it belongs instead of bungee'd to the side.

So, back to the carbs...

What happened is I took the bowl off the first carb and removed the floats, needle, and the slow jet. The slow jet is what mixes the fuel at idle and low speeds. The one that I took out was a little crunched at the end but would still work, so I put it back in. Cleaned everything up, put it back together and went on to the next. Everything was fine in the next until I went to put the slow jet back in and it snapped off. :doh: That one went back together when everything was cleaned. When I cleaned the last two I left the jets in, the others were clean and I didn't want to risk damaging them.

So- the carbs were cleaned and re-installed. And it ran.


Wednesday I stopped at Ehlerding's for my new carb parts, a battery, and the oil filter. Last night I took the carbs off to put the new parts in. The first one had the end break off in the carb and I had to drill it out. The second one... I tried to drill it. I should have used a reverse twist bit, but I didn't have one and was antsy to do this. I ended up driving it in farther before drilling it out. So I was fucked, and I stopped for the night.

Today I took the new jet to the hardware store and tried to figure out the thread size so maybe I could chase the threads and knock out the busted piece. No go. I went to Cutting Tools and managed to find a tap, 3.5mm x 0.6 pitch. That worked, I chased the threads, broke the brass up into smaller bits and fished it out. :acclaim:

I put the carbs back in and went for a ride. Runs much better. Gotta work on the brakes again, they seem to be hanging up a little.

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How to recover a seat.

Since the foam was removed I had to put new foam on.

Step one, scrap off all the foam.

Image

Step two, Wire wheel or flap disc the rust and rest of the foam off.

Image

Step three, remove hardware and old rivets.

Image

Step four, cut the foam to size.

Image

No pics of the rest, sorry.

glue foam to seat pan.
Lay vinyl on table.
Starting on the ends, attach vinyl to seat. Do two or three rivets in the middle.
Turn seat sideways, do one rivet in the middle on each side, then the middle of each half. Now you have 3 or 4 rivets in on each side. Start in the middle and work your way out, keeping the vinyl stretched and wrinkle-free.
Fold the ends in like a present.
Admire seat.
Put back on bike.

Image

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 Post Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:28 pm 
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What started as cleaning the garage turned into sliding my front axle in and seeing how much room I have. It seems to tuck up nice, but I'm wondering if it's too close. This would be full compression of course.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:51 am 
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Looks good, i'd run it :-D

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
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Chuck wrote:
Looks good, i'd run it :-D



x2

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 6:05 am 
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Parts collecting, more updates soon.

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 6:58 pm 
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I was at three parts stores and still didn't get everything. Try again tomorrow.

Image

2 rotors
2 brake brackets
2 calipers
2 sets brake pads
not quite 16 studs and lug nuts
not quite 4 caliper pins
one of 4 johnny joints, the other 4 are backordered
7075 links are coming

So, I still need a few studs, lug nuts, caliper pins, miscellaneous grade 8 hardware, and I should have my rear axle ready to go in. The rest of my link ends should be here on the 20th, so I need to get my garage cleaned out before then so I can start getting my axle in place.



About damn time...

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 10:13 pm 
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Scout-Matt wrote:
About damn time...

no kidding :flipoff2:

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:53 pm 
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My studs don't fit in the hubs. The hubs need to be drilled out. I thought about changing the studs but the studs are too small for the rotors and I don't want to go smaller for that reason. I need a 39/64 or 15.5 mm drill bit.

I had a stupid attack and tried to put the calipers on wrong. I attempted to put the caliper on with the bracket between the pads. Wrong way to do it. The pads go to the outside of the bracket.

I was told the bracket would fit and it would with some clearancing.

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 12:47 am 
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Scout-Matt wrote:
My studs don't fit in the hubs. The hubs need to be drilled out. I thought about changing the studs but the studs are too small for the rotors and I don't want to go smaller for that reason. I need a 39/64 or 15.5 mm drill bit.

I had a stupid attack and tried to put the calipers on wrong. I attempted to put the caliper on with the bracket between the pads. Wrong way to do it. The pads go to the outside of the bracket.

I was told the bracket would fit and it would with some clearancing.


well hell it sounds like you F****D up....no worries after a couple of times of trying to use cross reference numbers for seals i finally just order them from warn "hopefully they are right" if not well im running it anyways....


if you need any help give me a call... :tu2:


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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 9:46 am 
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I wouldn't say that. I used someone else's parts list for a 14b. I have the same axle as MacGyvr and I should have asked him if he had a part number for the wheel studs, but he's gone and I already have the parts. I should try to match them with the front 60...


I think most of what I'll be doing is cleaning the garage so I can work in there again.

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:43 pm 
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Mmmkay... Rear discs are done, johnny joints are here, 2 detroits, hp thick 5.13 gears, and 2 kingpin rebuild kits are on their way. Laptop is broke so I can't upload any pictures.

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 6:58 pm 
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damn...new job must be going well LOL

:tu2:


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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:57 am 
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Thousand dollar box is in, minus one Detroit. Hot Dog Friday is this week, and I am hopefully going to pick up my links and talk to some people about help setting up my gears. I don't have a press and puller to do it all myself.

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 8:43 am 
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Scout-Matt wrote:
Thousand dollar box is in, minus one Detroit. Hot Dog Friday is this week, and I am hopefully going to pick up my links and talk to some people about help setting up my gears. I don't have a press and puller to do it all myself.


hate to give you the bad news, but they had hotdog friday last week...


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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 6:07 pm 
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trained to drive the choo choo
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Small update...

Got 4 links now, and spent last weekend working on my rear axle. Bought some 14b shafts from a guy near Terre Haute and they fit perfectly in my eaton, after I put in the detroit. Now I have the Scout up in the air about where it's going to be so I can mock up some link brackets and get the rear axle in place.

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 11:51 am 
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sweet man!! hopefully you'll get to tear it up with us a little this summer. That is, if you still want to wheel with us puny jeep owners...

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 10:30 am 
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Sweet!!!! get er done

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 6:42 pm 
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trained to drive the choo choo
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No updates for 6 months???

Well yeah, because I haven't done jack shit since then.

A few weeks ago I made an agreement with Topper that I would come over and get his CJ wired so you can turn the key and it starts, and in return he would trailer my Scout over and help me hang axles. It didn't take long since the GM tbi is mostly plug and play. When I went home that Sunday, I went right in my garage and started working on my rig. Not the cutting and welding work, but the wiring work. So, now I have $250 in parts just today and am planning on having a 90% wired rig by the time we hang axles. The remaining 10% will be for the engine fan, front end lights, and radios. I'll post pics when I get done.


:edit: Almost done, she fired right up like nothing. Damn I can't wait.

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My mind is like a steel trap, everything that goes in comes out mutilated.


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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 9:41 pm 
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It's in the shop this very second... I'm fuckin excited to have a roller... that means the big shit is done and it's just little things left... I could really use a hamburger right now...

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 1:29 pm 
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Changed my under dash wiring again once I realized that my ecm was in the way of future tube, also found some nice fuse blocks rather than the modified ZJ underhood box. Bought some autometer gages to fill the holes, and tested the dash with a battery. Just about done.

I had built the crossmember for the lower links and made tabs for the rear axle, but got stuck on the uppers and everything in the front. Soooo, I made a deal with a friend and that deal was that I would do the wiring on his CJ and he would do (or help) with the suspension on mine. We got his engine wiring done 2 weeks ago, so my rig went to his house. We decided on a 3 link with the 3rd link outside the frame on the passenger side. After the brackets were made and tacked in, we came the conclusion that if we push the front axle out 6 inches it would make it easier to put in a track bar. *sigh* Doing that means cutting new holes in the frame, cutting out the front crossmember, blah blah.

I have a list of crap to take over with me, including a camera. Here's a couple pics of where I am right now.

Image

Image

Image

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 5:24 pm 
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I don't know if I mentioned it already, but it was realized that a double triangulated front would be not so easy to do while keeping the rig low. As a result, we went with a 3 link, and after more discussion, we extended the front axle out 6 inches. This gets us more room for the panhard and keeps the 3rd link out of the passenger side footwell. I am going to have to modify the motor mount on that side. Packaging will be tight between the motor mount, exhaust, starter, and link. While not nearly done it is at least rolling.

Image

I had to cut my bumper down, so I used some tube to make a nice rounded corner. Needs finished, but you get the idea.

Image

Crap engineering at it's finest. Actually some quick and dirty links to be able to roll it in and out of the shop.

Image

Been thinking I should gusset the tabs on the frame end. What do you think?

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 3:20 pm 
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Parts parts and more parts on order, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? I thought I had already bought all the big $$$ stuff, but no, I had to go and drop a fortune on more stuff. Some of it is backordered and won't be here for another 12 weeks. :crybaby2:

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My mind is like a steel trap, everything that goes in comes out mutilated.


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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 3:23 pm 
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Scout-Matt wrote:
Parts parts and more parts on order, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? I thought I had already bought all the big $$$ stuff, but no, I had to go and drop a fortune on more stuff. Some of it is backordered and won't be here for another 12 weeks. :crybaby2:


Foxtrot Uniform Charlie Kilo

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 11:33 pm 
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Wheels and tires...

Got my front axle knocked out, 5.13 gears with a detroit. I still have a list of shit to do.

Front hoop
Mount radiator,fan
t-case shifter
trans shifter/tv cable/cooler lines
a little bit of wiring, mostly lights
hydro assist/steering column
torque converter
re-work motor mounts
trans cooling lines
driveshafts
interior sheet metal
finish front and rear suspension
upper links
mount struts
brake lines
relocate fuel cell, maybe build a custom one
tire carrier (winch powered? these wheels are heavy)
tube work

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 3:21 pm 
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Location: West Lafayette, IN
Is this thing alive yet?

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'78 CJ7 project....350, NV3500, NP241, fiberglass tub, show and shine
'72 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible - the family fun car
'05 Chevrolet 3500 dually, duramax, stock
'05 Honda Odessey awesomevan
'08 Chevrolet HHR company car - The silver bullet

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 9:24 pm 
^ its alive, hairy man boobs it today. covered in sonw, but still looks to be a beast.


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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 10:50 pm 
X2 Checked it out today Matt very nice.Can't wait to see the ol scout on the trail.


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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:03 pm 
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trained to drive the choo choo
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It runs but doesn't drive yet. I want to move it to my house so I can work on it there now that I have a garage. It might get a roomie if Topper wants to bring his over too. I don't know if he has room for his now that he has that table.

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 Post subject: Re: Project Tetanus Shot
 Post Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 2:24 pm 
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Location: West Lafayette, IN
Uh whats the word on this?

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'78 CJ7 project....350, NV3500, NP241, fiberglass tub, show and shine
'72 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible - the family fun car
'05 Chevrolet 3500 dually, duramax, stock
'05 Honda Odessey awesomevan
'08 Chevrolet HHR company car - The silver bullet

Whatever....


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