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 Post subject: TJ D30 U-Joints
 Post Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:21 pm 
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Jeeper in IN
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I'm pretty sure one or both of my front u-joints need replaced. Something was chirping a little at Attica this weekend when I was in 4wd and had the steering at full lock. Then driving it to work this AM I was getting intermittent chirping in 2wd.


Can they be replaced w/o removing the axle shafts? I'm assuming I've got to remove everything down to the unit bearing at least, which I've read can be a real pain as well...


I was thinking about getting greasable u-joints (grease thru the cap); some people on here say get Spicer, other say Brute Force... suggestions?

This is for my 1997 TJ w/a D30 axle.

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 Post subject: Re: TJ D30 U-Joints
 Post Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:46 pm 
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mcwanek wrote:
I'm pretty sure one or both of my front u-joints need replaced. Something was chirping a little at Attica this weekend when I was in 4wd and had the steering at full lock. Then driving it to work this AM I was getting intermittent chirping in 2wd.


Can they be replaced w/o removing the axle shafts? I'm assuming I've got to remove everything down to the unit bearing at least, which I've read can be a real pain as well...


I was thinking about getting greasable u-joints (grease thru the cap); some people on here say get Spicer, other say Brute Force... suggestions?

This is for my 1997 TJ w/a D30 axle.


It isn't bad to replace them. You do have to remove the axle shaft.
I can replace them with my eyes closed now.
You do have to remove the caliper, rotor, unit bearing, and dust shield.

when you remove the unit bearing, do not put the rotor on backwards and hit with a small sledge. This could destroy the unit bearing. Ask me how I know.

Losen the three bolts that hold the unit bearing on, and tap on them softly to break loose the unit bearing.

If you need a hand, let me know.

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 1:00 pm 
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They slide right out once the unit bearing is removed.
Go with spicer.
And for axle Ujoints DO NOT get greasable ones, get the high quality spicer wheel joints ;)

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Jeeper4Life wrote:
noone means any harm and that it's all in fun.. but then there's kennedy..

'46CJ2a/buggy project in the works, yeah, still have those parts.
'14 Chebby Silverado, 4x4
'88 GMC S15 Trail Gypsy
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Motorcycles: '14 HD FLHTCU, '92 HD FXRS, '26 HD JD, '02 Suzuki DRZ400, '56 Cushman Eagle, '48 Simplex ServiCycle, '72 Honda MiniTrail50, '81 Yamaha YR250, Probably some other stuff
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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 2:25 pm 
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Jeeper in IN
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Is the Harbor Freight tool that some people have used worth it?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38335

Stu seems to like it: http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint1/u-joint-1.htm

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 2:26 pm 
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Jeeper in IN
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kennedy wrote:
And for axle Ujoints DO NOT get greasable ones, get the high quality spicer wheel joints ;)


Why not greasable? Just curious cos everybody seems to have an opinion one way or the other..... :?

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 2:35 pm 
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mcwanek wrote:
kennedy wrote:
And for axle Ujoints DO NOT get greasable ones, get the high quality spicer wheel joints ;)


Why not greasable? Just curious cos everybody seems to have an opinion one way or the other..... :?


I'm no expert, but i bet if it is greasable, then part of it is hollow.

(am I right?)

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 9:10 pm 
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mcwanek wrote:
kennedy wrote:
And for axle Ujoints DO NOT get greasable ones, get the high quality spicer wheel joints ;)


Why not greasable? Just curious cos everybody seems to have an opinion one way or the other..... :?


they aren't as strong, plus they aren't sealed as well. Like John said, the trunion isn't as thick. As a matter of fact I don't even think that Spicer has a part number for wheel joints w/ a grease zerk

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Jeeper4Life wrote:
noone means any harm and that it's all in fun.. but then there's kennedy..

'46CJ2a/buggy project in the works, yeah, still have those parts.
'14 Chebby Silverado, 4x4
'88 GMC S15 Trail Gypsy
A sweet lawn mower
Motorcycles: '14 HD FLHTCU, '92 HD FXRS, '26 HD JD, '02 Suzuki DRZ400, '56 Cushman Eagle, '48 Simplex ServiCycle, '72 Honda MiniTrail50, '81 Yamaha YR250, Probably some other stuff
"Tell me and I'll forget. Show me and I'll remember. Involve me and I'll understand." - Confucius
Image.................................................... ImageImage
"Concern yourself with what is right and you'll never second-guess that decision"
I'm not really an asshole, I just play one on the internet!


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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:59 pm 
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Jeeper in IN
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Location: Tipton, Indiana
mcwanek wrote:
Is the Harbor Freight tool that some people have used worth it?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38335

Stu seems to like it: http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint1/u-joint-1.htm


Got it and love it. Crank it down, then smack the yoke with a hammer (not with too much gumption) and those things come right out. Well worth the money. I just popped out the origional 1979 F250 ball joints effortlessly with mine and an impact wrench.

The non-greasable ones are stronger as stated above because they don't have the grease passages in them. I'd avoid Brute Force, they are a pretty generic Autozone brand. I haven't had great luck with them, or GMB (NAPA). Stick with the Spicers.


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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:19 pm 
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Jeeper in IN

Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2003 11:25 am
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Location: Fishers
The harbor freight tool is fantastic. I have one if anyone ever needs to borrow it.

Get the Spicer Life Series u-joints -- no need to re-grease for something like 100,000 miles (they do not have grease zerks).

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:24 pm 
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Jeeper in IN
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Cool, thanks for all the info. :tu2:

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